BACK
Home Improver Guide 4
TIMBER STORAGE SHED

MATERIALS LIST  | PLAN |  SETTING OUT  | FOUNDATIONS |  PLY GUSSETS  | FRAME CONSTRUCTION  | SHED ERECTION

This Timber Portal Framed Shed is designed for strength, head height and clear internal span. The secret to its strength lies in the rigid plywood gussets at the internal corners which transfer the roof loads directly to the ground and gives great stability. The flames can be constructed quickly and cheaply with a hammer and saw.

The shed is based on a width of 2.4 m. It has a centre height of 2.4 m resulting in good head height throughout.

Its length can be varied according to the number of frames you use. Doors and windows can be added between the frames or on the end walls and the shed styled and trimmed to suit your house. (For example: Tudor, Ranch, Contemporary and Colonial.)

NOTE: It is essential that all sheds are tied down to foundations to prevent damage to surrounding buildings in high winds. Building approval may be required by your local authority.

TIMBER FLOORS    

Timber floors should preferably be built off the ground on naturally durable or treated timber bearers and joists, and comply with the timber sizes found in Home Improver Guide 1 Timber Decks.

CONCRETE SLAB FLOOR    

A concrete pad should have'600 mm rat baffle wall foundations continuous around its perimeter and comply with sub-clause 40.2 (4) of the Queensland Home Building Code Appendix 4 (see Foundations 3).

For people who build on a concrete slab using untreated softwood framing and plywood, additional precautionary measures will be required to safeguard the structure against subterranean termites. In this situation, the concrete slab should have an exposed edge to facilitate regular inspections, with the top edge at least 100 mm above ground level.

OPTIONS

ROOF
Metal Sheeting.
External Treated Plywood.
Fibre Cement Sheeting.
Timber or Fibre Cement Shingles. Roofing must overhang sides and ridge flashing installed.

WALLS
Plywood, treated for external use, such as Hancock Texturewood.
Timber Chamfers or Weatherboards (Hardwood, Cypress or treated Pine). Fibre Cement products, with battens. Cladding should overhang edge of the slab.

SHELVING
Use off-cuts of ply for shelves.

 1. PLAN       top

Decide on the length of your shed and the location of doors and draw a plan view to scale on graph paper. For example:
1 m = 5 squares.

2. SETTING OUT       top

Set out on the ground with a string line, tape and level. Locate the corners of the shed and then measure the diagonals to ensure that the structure is square. (The diagonals should be equal.)

3. FOUNDATIONS          top
back
A level site should be prepared and boxed to allow for 100 mm of reinforced 20 MPa of concrete. A plastic membrane placed beneath the slab and tie-down bolts embedded 40 mm from edge, 80 mm from corners as shown. Pour the concrete, broom finish and allow to Framing Anchor cure. 

4. PLY GUSSETS        top

According to the framing material you have chosen (Hardwood or Pine), use the gusset and nail pattern marked as suitable on the full size patterns supplied. Mark out and cut two knees and one ridge gusset for each end frame and four knees and two ridge gussets for each intermediate frame. Be sure to mark nail positions on each ply gusset.

5. FRAME CONSTRUCTION       top

Using the ply gussets as a template, mark out and cut the angles and lengths of the framing timbers so that the roof members rest on top of the wall members. Assemble each frame on a flat, hard surface, making sure they are square and true before nailing on the ply gussets. All the frames should be identical, with the two end frames gusseted on one side only, and one frame curtailed for the door-head (see Shed Erection V).

Clad the two end frames with ply and trim with 75 x 25 mm edging to extend past the frame sides (not roof) by the width of the opposing cladding (for example: weatherboard 25 mm) ready for use. Fixing other types of cladding will require additional end gussets and frame packing. If required in end wall, door openings can be included at this point.

SHED ERECTION       top

1.  
2. Fix bottom plates to the perimeter of  the slab and bolt. Plate off-cut for door openings is used as Door Head. Seasoned pine  must have a damp proof membrane laid between the timber and the concrete.
3.  
4. Accurately mark all flame stations at  600 centres on the plates.
5.  
6. Stand up end wall panels and clamp on  one fascia and one ridge batten. (Check for square and then steady with temporary  bracing.)
7.  
8. Slide  in the intermediate frames and fix temporarily to batten and fascia. Fix to plates with  metal framing anchors. Door Head is cut and nailed in place so its bottom edge is 12 mm  lower than fascia. Cut and fit curtailed frame to head. (See knee joint  detail.)
9.  
10. Fit  timber or metal angle bracing to both sides (not required with ply sheeting). Fix cladding  to all sides and trim with fascia, so that the top edge of the fascia follows in line with  the top of roof battens. Fix battens, roofing and ridge flashing as per manufacturers  specification for the roof system you have chosen. Roof sheeting should overhang the  sides, slightly.   back
11. Make a rectangle frame which will fit inside the door  opening with 3-8 mm clearance on all sides. Fit diagonal brace as shown and overlap  cladding to give a neat appearance.
     
12. Finish and trim shed as desired. For example:

 

TUDOR STYLE - White stucco or ply sheets  with black battens

RANCH STYLE -  Red weatherboards or cedar shingles, green trim

RUSTIC COLONIAL - Sawn hardwood bracing

NORDIC - Diagonal  treated pine chamfer board and shingle roof

 

Opaque exterior paints or natural oil stains will  preserve and enhance the timber claddings. To reduce heat, pale colours are preferred.

 

---

Information sourced from TRADAC Home Improvement Guide.
(Timber Research and Development Council)

---

Page Top
BACK