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Home Improver Guide 10
TIMBER PANELLING
INSTALLATION  |   HORIZONTAL PANELLING  |  VERTICAL PANELLING 
DIAGONAL PANELLING  | FINISHING

STORAGE AND HANDLING
It is critical to keep internal panelling clean, dry and damage free. If left unprotected during periods of high humidity it may also absorb moisture from the air. Therefore, after delivery and prior to installation, keep the packs of panelling under cover and in their impermeable wrappers until ready for use.

ESTIMATING QUANTITIES
Panelling is normally sold in standard lengths to suit wall heights up to 3 metres. Don't worry if the standard lengths are a little shorter than your wall height as the skirting and cornice will cover small gaps. Wall. panelling is ordered according to the number of set lengths required to cover the area of wall and is calculated by the following method:

Number of          = Length of wall in metres x 1000
Vertical Boards        Cover width of panelling (mm)

Number of          = Height of wall in metres x 1000
Horizontal Boards     Cover width of panelling (mm)

When fling horizontal panelling to walls longer than 3 metres, it is acceptable to 'butt' join the boards at stud intersections providing you stagger the joints throughout the wall. Alternatively, you should order the boards in lineal metres (random lengths) using the short lengths at the edges of the feature wall and distribute butt joins as evenly as possible.

Lineal Metres              = Height of wall in metres x 1000 x Length of wall in metres.
                                     Cover width of panelling (mm)

NOTE:- Add 10%  for wastage.

INSTALLATION    top
Horizontal panelling may be fixed with nails and/or stud adhesive directly to the common wall studs while, vertical panelling will need added horizontal support, in the form of nogging (blocking) between the studs or full battens over the face of the wall. The smoothness of the finished panelling will depend largely on the straightness and spacing of the supporting Embers. Table 1(below) provides a guide to maximum support spacings.

Table 1.  Maximum spacing of supports       back

Fixing
As shown in Figure 1 , boards up to 15Omm wide may be secret nailed however, boards over 15Omm must have two nails hammered through the full thickness of the board at every support. Avoid hammer marks on the timber by using a nail punch for the final hits, leaving the nail head below the surface ready for wood putty. Glues such as 'liquid nails', wallboard adhesive and stud adhesive may be used in conjunction with holding nails but use care not to get glue on the face of the panel.

Bathrooms
Be aware that the moisture laden air which can occur in bathrooms and laundries can adversely affect inadequately finished timber panelling. It is recommended that one full coat of clear finish be applied to all surfaces of the boards, including ends, before installation and fix with non-corrosive nails. Glue fixing alone is not recommended. Panelling should not be used in direct contact with water such as in shower areas, around baths or for splash backs.

Squaring Up
To make sure that the panel area is square, check that the dimensions of the opposite sides are equal as well as the diagonals. If out of square, make gradual adjustments to the spacing of the boards so as the lack of squareness will not be apparent.

Corner Details
On internal corners the boards can either be square or scribe cut and butted tightly against the adjoining surface or a 'stop' or corner mould can be used. On external corners, use either a 'stop' or a cover mould. Refer to Figure 2.

STEP BY STEP INSTRUCTIONS

HORIZONTAL PANELLING     top
Step 1. Start at the bottom of the wall or surface to be panelled and work upwards, keeping the tongue edge up. The first board should be scribe cut to the floor or adjacent bottom surface and levelled before fixing to ensure that the remaining boards are fixed true. Refer to Figure 3.

Step 2. The rest of the panelling is laid by bringing the groove tight into the tongue using a chisel as a lever. Refer to Figure 4 .
At intervals during the progress up the wall or surface being panelled, measure to the opposite surface to ensure that the boards are parallel. This is particularly important at either side of an opening where horizontal panelling continues above. Joints may be kept apart slightly to correct any error d necessary, but this gap may be visible. Catch up over a number of boards if the difference in parallel is great.

Step 3 . Scribe the last board to the adjacent surface and slightly undercut the edge. Fit the last two boards together by springing them into position. Refer to Figure 6 .

VERTICAL PANELLING     top
Step 1. Ensure that there are sufficient noggings in place to satisfy the spacing requirements. Alternatively, install 50 x 25mm battens across the face of the wall at the spacing shown in Table 1. Begin as for Step 1 - Horizontal Panelling.

Step 2. Start at one side wall and with the grooved edge of the first board against that wall. If necessary, scribe cut the board to the wall to make it fit snugly. Use a level or plumb-line to ensure that this first board is installed vertically. Refer to Figure 5.Continue as for Step 2 - Horizontal Panelling.

Step 3.  As for Step 3. Horizontal Panelling.

DIAGONAL PANELLING     top
This wall panelling calls for more skill and care, but the results can be rewarding. Boards are usually angled at 45 degrees, although any angle can be chosen. Ensure that the spacing of supports as measured along the board is not greater than those listed in Table 1. Calculate the quantities as for lineal metres. Wastage could be up to 20% however careful thought given to layout may reduce this. Use a mitre box or make a simple jig to cut the appropriate angles. Start at a bottom corner with the tongue edge up. Before fixing the first board into place, mark the length of the next board. Fit the tongue and groove together before marking. Refer to Figure 7. A number of boards can be marked and cut this way before fixing. But don't cut too may in advance as lengths may vary as you progress. The last 3 or 4 boards will need to be sprung into position as in the installation of horizontal cladding. Refer to Figure 6.

FINISHING    top
Clear finishes are the most serviceable for interior applications; polyurethane and acrylics, being commonly used. They are quick and easy to use, available in gloss or matt finish, and provide excellent protection. Stains are used to achieve special colour effects, however experimentation with a number of offcuts first is wise. A clear finish over a stain is optional. Check with manufacturers to ensure the clear finish is compatible with the stain. Finishes should be applied in accordance with the manufacturers specifications.

Information sourced from TRADAC Home Improvement Guide.
(Timber Research and Development Council)

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